Travel

The good life in North Wales

Clive Nicholls takes it easy, Nordic style, and makes the most of the Snowdonia National Park

As dusk turns to nightfall the mountaintops merge into the darkening sky. It is very serene, very beautiful, with only the hum of the hot tub that I’m relaxing in breaking the silence. I pour a glass of wine and decide to enjoy these magic moments a few minutes more.

I’m staying at the ‘Rivercatcher’ log cabins, and with the Snowdonia National Park as a close neighbour and the River Dee running through the back garden, I’m perfectly placed to enjoy the tranquillity here or use it as a base to explore North Wales.

Earlier in the day I visited Porthmadog on the coast at Tremadog Bay. It’s got a pretty little harbour, and magnificent views across the water to Snowdonia. The Welsh Highland Railway stops off here, it has the beach at Black Rock Sands, history with Criccieth Castle and importantly for me, a supermarket where I can pick up supplies for my stay at Rivercatcher. Mylog cabin ‘Hyggelig’, pronounced hoo-gah-lig, has a Nordic theme, with wood burner, throws, and everything for a secluded break away for two people.

The kitchen is fully equipped but I’m on holiday and taking the easy way out, courtesy of the ready meal section of Porthmadog’s Tesco superstore. Curry tonight, pasta tomorrow then Chinese.

I didn’t challenge my culinary skills too much with last night’s curry but breakfast is a different matter – full English is my holiday treat. Fire up the grill, get some heat under the frying pan and soon the sausages are sizzling – perfect.

My plan for the day takes in Bala Lake (it’s almost on our doorstep) before stopping off at the Tryweryn River which joins the River Dee at Bala. There’s a white water centre there but today walking the Tryweryn Trail is my preferred option.

Back in the car I drive to Betws-y-Coed and stop for coffee. St Mary’s Church here was built in 1873 with the tower finished in 1907. Despite being a relative youngster as far as churches go, it is well worth a visit, and makes for a peaceful interlude in a busy day.

Betws-y-Coed is a big outdoor centre so if you’re looking for new boots or a waterproof, there’s plenty of choice.

I’m taking the Llanberis Pass up to Llanberis and the National Slate Museum. The Pass is dramatic and beautiful, but unfortunately as I arrived the weather changed from damp and overcast to very wet, but that’s mountains for you, five minutes later and the sun might be shining – but it wasn’t. The top of the Pass is 1178ft but with mountains steep and close on either side it somehow feels higher than that.

As I pass through Llanberis, the yard for the Snowdon Mountain Railway is busy, but to get the best from a trip up the mountain, visibility would need to be better – perhaps another time.

The National Slate Museum (entry is free, just pay for the car park) gives an insight into what was a huge industry in the region. At the end of the 19th century 17,000 workers were extracting half a million tons of slate a year. At the turn of the century industrial action started the decline: wars, the depression and competition from other materials completed the job.

The Sixties and Seventies saw big closures and today production is on a very small scale. The museum, partly indoors, partly out, shows the machinery involved – it must have been a noisy and rather uncomfortable place to work.

The site today is as if the workers just downed tools and left at the end of their shift and nothing has changed.

Back at Rivercatcher there is something nice about settling in for the evening, particularly when I’m stocked up with food and wine, the accommodation is spectacularly good (it’s new this year) and the weather has moderated enough to eat outside.

Next day, a change of direction, I head north to Ruthin and then across to Chester.

Ruthin is quirky and there are one or two antiques shops that are not only interesting but tempting. There was a rocking horse that had clearly been well loved but was in need of a new home. Despite the look on his face that said ‘take me home’ I had to walk on by.

Chester is really a full day in itself; you are back in England now (only just) and the city, built around a Roman Fort, has an almost complete wall, there are only about 100 yards missing.

Recognised for its timber-framed buildings, the centre is a fascinating mix of new and old, modern shops in old buildings. For me, it’s the walls that are the big attraction. A full circuit is just under two miles but it’s worth the walk. You see so much and get a real flavour of Chester.

Back at Rivercatcher there’s a change of plan; I’m barbecuing tonight. I have a plumbed-in Barbie on the decking so a swift stop at the supermarket: chicken breasts, burgers and bangers and I’m all sorted.

My stay is sadly over too soon. If I had more time I would have a day at Rivercatcher just relaxing with a good book and a couple of magazines. It’s a great place to be and you don’t always need to be dashing off somewhere.

It’s great to see the sights and try new things, but sometimes relaxing is good, too. At Rivercatcher you can do both.

Find out more

Rivercatcher Luxury Log Cabins are four individually styled Scandi log cabins in North Wales on the edge of the Snowdonia National Park in the foothills of the beautiful Berwyn Mountains. Each has its own theme: Cwtch, or hug in Welsh, has rustic design and earthy colours. Lagom is a light and airy Scandi-style cabin; Hyggelig, a traditional Norwegian ‘ski chalet’ type abode; and Gezellig, an eclectically styled boho cabin. A three-night short break in low season costs £365 and a week £521. Go to: (www.rivercatcher.co.uk) and (www.rivercatcher.co.uk/luxury-log-cabinsnorth-wales), tel: 01490 440498

National Slate Museum, Llanberis LL55 4TY , tel: 0300 111 2 333, website: (www.museum.wales/slate). Opening times: Easter to October: 10am to 5pm, daily. November to Easter: 10am to 4pm, closed Saturdays. Entry is free.

Snowdon Mountain Railway, Llanberis, Gwynedd LL55 4TY . Website: (www.snowdonrailway.co.uk), tel: 01286 870223. Open from 8:30am daily.

Other stories in Travel

Where to holiday and avoid the crowds
A year in cottages
Around the World in 101 nights
Talk a Norfolk walk and enjoy a pint
Fred Olsen Cruise Lines now open for 2025
Fair Stood the Train for France
Emerald Cruises
Solos Holiday Breaks
Take to the water this Autumn
Enjoy an Autumn brunch in London
Discover the charms of Knightsbridge
Last-minute savings on European yacht sailings
Visit this Summer’s Blockbuster Locations
Steam Dreams
Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours
Birdwatching
Bambi in the Blenheim Bluebells
Adventure Play at Blenheim Palace
Eclipse All Aboard for Cruise Adventures
Camping out at Bert’s Kitchen Garden
Second Guest Sails Free with Emerald Cruises
Dogs at the Palace
London's River Uber
Spend a night with Dennis The Menace
Taking a break at Old Dairy Cottage
Wild Isles with cottage comfort
Summer in the Swiss Alpes
Garden Museum London
Discover Paris
What women travellers want
Florida
Fred Olsen Cruise Lines
Canterbury's tale
Discovering Wales - Places of Worship
Ayers Rock
Discover Ireland
The Dos and Don’ts of Travelling With Leukaemia
Sicily revisited
The road to the Highlands
Amazing Arizona Part 1
Over the Bridge to Skye
Buxton: Gateway to the Peaks
Walking Series: Folkestone
Hills and thrills in the Italian Lakes
Travel News: October
Corsica: Coast and culture
A capital time in London
Happy to be on the Florida Keys
Cruise Special: Around Britain by Boat
Have a capital time in London
Polynesian Paradise
Gardens in the sun
A taste of paradise in Puglia
Music in the mountains
Cruising by coach
A Lakes gem for all seasons
Canada: by seaplane and skytram
Cruising on the crest of a wave
Riding the Rocky Mountaineer
48 hours in Bethlehem
Goa, the go-to destination...
Roaming the Rhone
Doing The Strand
Sheffield: Forging a bright new future
Setting sail for the fjords
Taking it easy on the shores of Lake Garda
Be the best Brit abroad
What's on your British bucket list?
Passage to India
Isle of Wight: Singing the praises of quirky cottages
Zell am See: Alpine Wonderland
Turning back time in Guernsey
Glam under the stars in surprising Staffordshire
Red Square Revisited
Fine dining and a walk on the wild side
Detroit: Dancing in the streets again
Terror and Tourism- are you covered?
Islands in the Sun
Cornwall by Coach
Making Waves on the Med
Tramway Treasury
Sunrise on the Summit
Homage to Catalonia
Pembrokeshire Panorama
The Magic of Amsterdam
Born to be wild on Route 66
Somerset's Seasonal Delights
A topping time in Tirol
England Rooftop Route Part 1
Besieged Bosnia: Back in Business
Cruising The Danube
Quest for a Lost Queen
Wiltshire's Winning Ways
We'd rather be in Colorado
Taking it easy in Norfolk
Luscious Lucerne
Arizona: Get Your Kicks on Route 66
Discoveries: Epic Adventure
Northern Ireland: Transformed from the Troubles
Kingston: Town of kings
Extraordinary Israel
Avalon's Avian Haven
Station Vacation